Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their children do not want to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these narratives and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
