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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. But, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the family utterly astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small place achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.